It was on this trip that I started to put a bit more effort into my emails and decided that I wanted to write more about my travels.
I have edited and expanded upon my original emails for the sake of the story.
Knee How Brown Cow.
March 16, 2008
Greetings From Hong Kong.
I got some restless uncomfortable sleep on the Midnight Plane to China.
The main problem with trying to rest on an overnight flight is that they keep waking everybody up at inappropriate hours to feed them.
I have a 4 and a half hour stop over in Hong Kong.
I spend the first hour waiting for things to open before I finally get my boarding pass for my connecting flight. The information desk is now open so I can finally ask someone how to get out of the area with seats, schedules and empty counters out up to the area with all the shops and people.
I step through a discrete sliding glass door and the airport transforms from a quiet empty waiting room into a lively bustling shopping complex.
Looking for breakfast, hmm, let's see...
That looks nice ... only umm ... $45. I keep looking.
I have a nice bowl of prawn wonton noodle soup for $7 and I feel much well being.
From the large windows of the large airport I see large hills overlooking large rows of large high rise buildings.
Umm ... I'll take a photo.
I'm tired and not thinking clearly. I think I'll go get something more to eat and chill out for a while.
By the time you read this I will probably already be in China.
Stay Groovy
Daniel
Hi y'all
It's a chilly night here in Li Jiang, China.
Yesterday I wandered around Kunming for a few hours before I joined my tour and met the tour leader Zu and the rest of our tour group.
We went out for a nice dinner, then a few of us went out to a really cool bar, where about four different musicians did solo acts for about 30 minutes each.
This morning we left on an 8 hour bus ride to Li Jiang. The scenery was fabulous but I kept dozing off along the way. Our accommodation is fabulous here. We are on a hill side overlooking the town. A blanket of terracotta roofs.
We go to the old town for dinner and wander around the shops etc. Stone flagstone footpaths alongside a canal with many small stone foot bridges. It's quite the tourist town with many restaurants and bars each with a pair of girls in colourful costume at the entrance hawking the virtues of the establishment.
We then go to a local theatre where the orchestra plays traditional Naxi music and there is a colourful and entertaining performance of traditional Naxi dancing. (The Naxi are the main local indigenous group)
I have just had a hot chocolate before checking my email. Thanks to those who wrote me.
I start my trek the day after tomorrow. Tomorrow we will cycle around town.
Time for bed now.
Later
Daniel
A Bar in Kunming
A picturesque lake near Li Jiang where some locals sit and play chess.
Various emails from various people.
Hi Daniel
how are the Chinese people now? are they trying to get lots out of you?
what is China like these days....it has been 15 years since I was there and I bet it is more crowded than it was then.
When do you start your trek?
There sure are a lot of Chinese people here.
I counted 28 of them today, but then I decided there were just too many to count. I think there are about 35 Billion of them just in Kunming alone.
Unlike other countries, they haven't been harassing me trying to sell me things.
I start my trek they day after tomorrow. After 3 days I come back to Li Jiang and the next day I will be in Dali.
Daniel
Hi Daniel
What are prices like in China? Is it expensive.? Is Hong Kong an island and is it part of China or not? I saw on the news there have been some riots there. What's that about?
Send me some photos if you get a chance .
Wish I was there too.
It is usually sunny and warm during the day but its been cold today up the mountain in Dali. Its been chilly at night.
Prices range from about 1/6th to full price for what you'd pay in Australia.
Umm ... of what I would pay in Australia.
Before my trip, I asked a friend how much meals typically costs in China. She said, "They're free!" and it does seem that way.
Last night we had a banquet with about twice as match food as we could eat. It cost us 45 Yuan each. That's about $7.50 AU.
I had a lovely soup for lunch for $1. I overpaid for a nice shirt $6.65.
But in some nice places you can pay up to $7 for a bad coffee.
Hong Kong is a region of China which includes Hong Kong Island.
England leased Hong Kong from the Chinese for 100 years. The lease expired several years ago and the Chinese government are back in charge. Check out Wikipedia for the rest.
Daniel
What there's no pollution, no crap food, no harassment to buy stuff you don't want and 5 star toilets? Are you being careful crossing roads? Remember they don't give way to pedestrians.
Hanoi and Kathmandu had bad pollution. Here I have been in a lot of country areas and staying in the "old city" in Li Jiang and Dali where there are no roads for cars.
And to be honest I reckon suburban Melbourne is kind of polluted to.
In Vietnam, Nepal and India there was constant harassment to buy things. Here, I feel like I am being ignored.
I don't mind my food being a bit on the oily side. I have had some dishes that weren't that good. but that's mainly from ordering things just to find out what they are like.
I admit China has some of the worst public toilets. I have been more fortunate with the toilets than the women on the trip.
Oh and the emergency room of the hospital could have been a lot more hygienic. But more about that in my next email.
Yes, I am being careful crossing the roads.
hope you have a happy Easter.
I'll be back in a few days - wow.
Daniel
I only caught the end of a news clip and there is unrest between the Chinese and Tibetans again.
Does anybody talk about it?
Yes, there is talk of unrest in Tibet and I have seen Chinese troops on the move.
But I haven't kept up with the news so you are surely better informed than me.
Daniel
Hi Daniel I'm hoping you are loving China. Have you heard much of how the Chinese government/police are suppressing the people/monks from Tibet?
Whatever they have been saying about Tibet they have been saying in Chinese so I can't tell you anything Sorry. I have just been holidaying and haven't been paying attention to the news.
I did see Chinese troops on the move yesterday and a few days ago.
At 6 am in Li Jiang I was surprised to find out the emergency room of the hospital was totally empty.
They had to wake the doctor up to see me. He invited me to sit down on a child size wooden stool that had drops of blood on it. Next to it was a bucket half full of bloody tissues. The small round mirror strapped to his forehead also needed to be cleaned.
He did use a clean wooden tongue depressor and I am sure the long tweezer thingies he used were properly sterilised. Not that it mattered because they didn't touch anything as he deftly reached down my throat and removed a very thin, 1/2 cm long fish bone that had been bugging me since 1am.
I had to pay $5 for the procedure. My tour guide explained it was so expensive because it was an emergency. Still, I don't think I will make an insurance claim.
After that I felt much better and was able to have a quick breakfast before heading out to Tiger Leaping Gorge with the rest of the gang. Then it was 3 days hiking, eating, sleeping, learning to play mah jong. Hen piao liung - very beautiful. I'll have to show you the photos.
Back to Li Jiang and a birthday dinner for Emma. We go out to an English pub and I talk to a couple of Canadians that are living in China. The bartender insists that my Kahlua and milk should have some vodka in it as well so I have my first "white Russian" and it is quite pleasant.
The next day we travel to Dali. Along the way we pass many army vehicles and maybe 3000 - 5000 soldiers. It's raining and cloudy so our tour guide advises against going up the mountain in such bad weather. But wandering around town an hour later, the rain stops so I make my way to the chair lift. It takes about 15 minutes to get high up in the mountain. (Still not up into the snowy part). I hadn't really prepared and it's so cold up there, so I buy a hat and some gloves. There's a stone path called the "cloud pass" which goes flat along the mountain for 11km. I only have about an hour to walk along it so I make the most of it and it is hen piao liung. The cloud has lifted so I have a clear view of Dali and the lake.
Street vendors sell delicious food on skewers for about 10 to 20 cents each.
I am a big fan of the mushroom and tofu varieties.
The next day we cycle about 65k around half of the lake passing through small towns and seeing lots of farmers in the fields. There's a strong pleasant smell of garlic being harvested.
It's raining and cold again by the time we finish.
Easter Sunday and we leave Dali returning to Kunming. I go to a market in the afternoon and buy a mah jong set which is heavy so it will go in my hand luggage for the return flight. That night we have a final dinner together.
This morning I said farewell to everyone at breakfast and caught a taxi to the Airport. I have a two and a half hour plane flight to Shanghai and then about one and a half hours in a bus transferring to Pudong Airport.
And that's where I am now. Its 4.06 pm. my flight leaves at 8.20pm (11:20pm Melbourne time) It's a direct flight to Melbourne and I arrive at 10 something or other AM.
See you soon
Daniel
Wish I was there too.
It is usually sunny and warm during the day but its been cold today up the mountain in Dali. Its been chilly at night.
Prices range from about 1/6th to full price for what you'd pay in Australia.
Umm ... of what I would pay in Australia.
Before my trip, I asked a friend how much meals typically costs in China. She said, "They're free!" and it does seem that way.
Last night we had a banquet with about twice as match food as we could eat. It cost us 45 Yuan each. That's about $7.50 AU.
I had a lovely soup for lunch for $1. I overpaid for a nice shirt $6.65.
But in some nice places you can pay up to $7 for a bad coffee.
Hong Kong is a region of China which includes Hong Kong Island.
England leased Hong Kong from the Chinese for 100 years. The lease expired several years ago and the Chinese government are back in charge. Check out Wikipedia for the rest.
Daniel
What there's no pollution, no crap food, no harassment to buy stuff you don't want and 5 star toilets? Are you being careful crossing roads? Remember they don't give way to pedestrians.
Hanoi and Kathmandu had bad pollution. Here I have been in a lot of country areas and staying in the "old city" in Li Jiang and Dali where there are no roads for cars.
And to be honest I reckon suburban Melbourne is kind of polluted to.
In Vietnam, Nepal and India there was constant harassment to buy things. Here, I feel like I am being ignored.
I don't mind my food being a bit on the oily side. I have had some dishes that weren't that good. but that's mainly from ordering things just to find out what they are like.
I admit China has some of the worst public toilets. I have been more fortunate with the toilets than the women on the trip.
Oh and the emergency room of the hospital could have been a lot more hygienic. But more about that in my next email.
Yes, I am being careful crossing the roads.
hope you have a happy Easter.
I'll be back in a few days - wow.
Daniel
I only caught the end of a news clip and there is unrest between the Chinese and Tibetans again.
Does anybody talk about it?
Yes, there is talk of unrest in Tibet and I have seen Chinese troops on the move.
But I haven't kept up with the news so you are surely better informed than me.
Daniel
Hi Daniel I'm hoping you are loving China. Have you heard much of how the Chinese government/police are suppressing the people/monks from Tibet?
Whatever they have been saying about Tibet they have been saying in Chinese so I can't tell you anything Sorry. I have just been holidaying and haven't been paying attention to the news.
I did see Chinese troops on the move yesterday and a few days ago.
I just flew from Kunming to Shanghai and boy are my arms tired.
Hi everyone.At 6 am in Li Jiang I was surprised to find out the emergency room of the hospital was totally empty.
They had to wake the doctor up to see me. He invited me to sit down on a child size wooden stool that had drops of blood on it. Next to it was a bucket half full of bloody tissues. The small round mirror strapped to his forehead also needed to be cleaned.
He did use a clean wooden tongue depressor and I am sure the long tweezer thingies he used were properly sterilised. Not that it mattered because they didn't touch anything as he deftly reached down my throat and removed a very thin, 1/2 cm long fish bone that had been bugging me since 1am.
I had to pay $5 for the procedure. My tour guide explained it was so expensive because it was an emergency. Still, I don't think I will make an insurance claim.
After that I felt much better and was able to have a quick breakfast before heading out to Tiger Leaping Gorge with the rest of the gang. Then it was 3 days hiking, eating, sleeping, learning to play mah jong. Hen piao liung - very beautiful. I'll have to show you the photos.
The first day out Tiger Leaping Gorge - along the road.
The second day. We start our return via the high road.
We reach our accommodation for the second night. Quaint, charming and remote.
The open air tea room has a magnificent view.
My room.
At night it is pitch black and a cold wind rattles the windows
but I sleep comfortably as snug as a bug in a rug.
At night it is pitch black and a cold wind rattles the windows
but I sleep comfortably as snug as a bug in a rug.
Early morning light.
On the last day we set a new record returning back in the shortest time. The group I am with moves at a quick pace with me trailing at the end. I wish they would just slow down a bit and enjoy China.Back to Li Jiang and a birthday dinner for Emma. We go out to an English pub and I talk to a couple of Canadians that are living in China. The bartender insists that my Kahlua and milk should have some vodka in it as well so I have my first "white Russian" and it is quite pleasant.
The next day we travel to Dali. Along the way we pass many army vehicles and maybe 3000 - 5000 soldiers. It's raining and cloudy so our tour guide advises against going up the mountain in such bad weather. But wandering around town an hour later, the rain stops so I make my way to the chair lift. It takes about 15 minutes to get high up in the mountain. (Still not up into the snowy part). I hadn't really prepared and it's so cold up there, so I buy a hat and some gloves. There's a stone path called the "cloud pass" which goes flat along the mountain for 11km. I only have about an hour to walk along it so I make the most of it and it is hen piao liung. The cloud has lifted so I have a clear view of Dali and the lake.
The Cloud Pass. An impressive well-maintained walking trail.
Street vendors sell delicious food on skewers for about 10 to 20 cents each.I am a big fan of the mushroom and tofu varieties.
The next day we cycle about 65k around half of the lake passing through small towns and seeing lots of farmers in the fields. There's a strong pleasant smell of garlic being harvested.
It's raining and cold again by the time we finish.
Easter Sunday and we leave Dali returning to Kunming. I go to a market in the afternoon and buy a mah jong set which is heavy so it will go in my hand luggage for the return flight. That night we have a final dinner together.
This morning I said farewell to everyone at breakfast and caught a taxi to the Airport. I have a two and a half hour plane flight to Shanghai and then about one and a half hours in a bus transferring to Pudong Airport.
And that's where I am now. Its 4.06 pm. my flight leaves at 8.20pm (11:20pm Melbourne time) It's a direct flight to Melbourne and I arrive at 10 something or other AM.
See you soon
Daniel
